Fenix, London W1: ‘Big, bright, brash, dumbed down, shameless and open to all’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

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Fenix, London W1: ‘Big, bright, brash, dumbed down, shameless and open to all’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

Can taramasalata, hummus or moussaka ever be fancy? Short answer: yesFenix, a new Greek restaurant on Piccadilly in Mayfair, is very much part of what I’m calling the “maximalist” group of modern openings. See also Lilib…

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